
Last week I got things situated for the tubs to sit on the racks better. That came in handy this week working on doing the plumbing.
The plumbing went reasonably well, and I learned a few things along the way. I also had ot design myself out of a situation I put myself in. If you are interested in check this weeks episode out to learn more.
I agree with the pump, the recirculation loop (throttle valve to control flow and aerate), and the drain tap (valve above to isolate pump from tower. But teeing off to each individual bin has me confused. Lift the water to the top (and split it to a left and right tub), and either infeed through the bottom (for a microgreen wicking bed) or hook over the top for aeration. The bulkhead in the bottom of the concrete mixing tube can have a stand pipe to set water retention level, and a female pipe thread to slip coupling with a pipe stub descending straight down. Glue is unnecessary as it is an atmospheric/unpressurized line, press fit is sufficient (don’t press the stand pipe too far into the bulkhead as it is a bit more difficult to extract with the tolerances of the two plastics. They will need to be adjusted to the height of your grow media, if suspending with netcups rather than the clay.) You will have roots that are pulled down the bulkhead by the flowing water (careful they don’t clog the outflow or the water might crest on the edge of the tub). (any drips will fall onto the lower tube or reservoir. Your fitting cost is making it more expensive than it needs to be. One concern with the clips for the barrina lights is that you cannot lower them to increase the intensity of the lights. disclaimer, my system has been converted over to kracky after about seven months, and that has been down for the past month or so with the garden getting our attention. (Humidity and extra heat were messing with the incubators. (central air will concentrate your master blend solution.)